Pattern Review: Vogue 9295 Vintage 1940s dresses

This is a great pattern, and one of the few times that I’ve made the garment twice. Not only that, I remade it within months of making the first!

Fabric: Short sleeved version – cotton shirting. Long sleeved version – polyester jacquard. Both are from C&M Textiles of Ottawa and Montreal. I used silk taffeta left over from other projects for the support for the sleeve heads.

Adjustments Made

I modified the bodice using the dartless FBA technique described for Closet Case patterns’ Kalle blouse. The only thing worth noting that isn’t clear about those instructions is that you have to keep the side seam the original length, and draw a gentle line to the lengthened portion near centre front – in other words you’re chopping the dart off from the hem rather than folding a section out at the bust.

The only other adjustment is that the instructions for the hook and eye at the neck is backwards; it constantly undoes. You need the hook to face the garment.

Sewing Notes

It’s a well-drafted pattern. Carefully mark all the pleats, etc, and it’ll come together properly.

Vogue 9295 in cotton shirting

The shoulder is sewn on to the bodice front unusually – you overlay the bias-bound piece, and stitch by hand in the ditch. Carefully place it based on the pattern markings, and it really does work well. It did take a little extra hand-finishing, and I double-stitched to make it extra strong, but so far, so good. 

I shortened the bodice slightly at centre front so that it wasn’t too much of a “poof”. (I also did a short-waisted adjustment, and shortened bodice front and back by 1″). The side zipper is hand-picked, with the lap facing the back.

Other than the pleats, it came together quite quickly.

Vogue 9295 in longer sleeves

Outcome

I’m really happy with these dresses. They fit well, are really comfortable, and are flattering. I don’t normally like high-necked garments, but these are just low enough to be comfortable. They’ve fast become favourites.

Note: the long-sleeved version is worn with the sleeve pushed up your arm. The pattern has markings for a button, but I didn’t think it would look nice since the jacquard’s a little thicker than the cotton was. Perhaps because of its extra thickness, it worked out fine. It’s surprisingly comfortable and doesn’t “fall” down on you when wearing it at work.

Dancing around in Vogue 9295

Feeling good in Vogue 9295

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